The SE corner of Costa Rica is home to the country’s largest mangrove swamp and Corcovado’s isolated tropical rainforest park (50% of all of Costa Rica’s species!). The park is 17km from equally isolated Bahía Drake, a craggy stretch of coastline with sandy inlets that disappear at high tide. Reaching Drake by motorboat was pretty through the mangroves; there are no jetties so the rich tourists struggled with their expensive footwear, cameras and excessive luggage. The alternative route is six hours in a 4×4 on rough dirt roads. Our motorcross friends thought it was thrilling, but not possible on our bikes.
We enjoyed part of the coastal trail towards the park, 17km away, through steamy hot forest and untouched beaches, but not much wildlife, some scary spiders and pairs of macaws, flashing red, squawking above. The park is expensive to access, hike and lodge (unless you camp) some visitors told us they didn’t see much but were massacred by insects. We decided it was beyond our budget, besides, we cannot cope with the lowland heat.
Our speedboat ride returning to Sierpe was pretty thrilling. The young driver could not have accelerated or decelerated any faster, me, lurching and gripping, no life jackets, look forward! Then we sped between the rocks marking the mouth of the river, and rode along the back of a 6’ breaking wave. Too exciting to be scared, boat tilted at 45’, parallel to a wall of white water descending below, and racing towards a wave breaking ahead. Then we reached deeper mid-channel, a quick 45’ turn and somehow we were between then ahead of both waves. No time to recover as we blasted up the channel. Phew!!