This must be the most tranquil spot in Central America. We are in Sierpe, a village at the end of a (blissfully empty) dead end road. From here collectivo boats wind through the mangroves to Drake bay ( he landed 1579) and Corcovado national park. Pairs of macaws squawk from the almond tree opposite, then fly off into the forest. The bird call is tremendous, even on the main road we are amazed by the birds that fly by, the Cicada call, a hawk perched on the roadside that didn’t budge as we slowly pedalled by. It is so so green, multiple shades of green on top of green. En route we found a perfect beach, backed by shady forest. And the people are so friendly. Ricans are renowned for their hospitality. ‘Pura vida’ is a life philosophy out here and the term is used frequently as a greeting as well as a farewell.
But still no rain. Blissfully some clouds yesterday, but not for long, face sweating profusely by 8am. Climbing into the hills on Wednesday.
Charles fancied hiring a canoe $40 per hour… bit steep… then we spotted a huge caimen, it’s like an alligator with a shovel like nose, its grey scaly back gliding through the water, and we were glad not to kayak after all.
In pre-Columbian times this delta region was home to the Dequis people who traded with the Incas to the south, and the Mayans to the north. No temples here, only immense, perfect stone spheres, hundreds of them (the largest 24 tonnes) cut using stone tools (300BC-1500AD). Perhaps a solar calendar? But the bigger the stone the more important the chief. holds Costa Rica’s most indigenous peoples
We saw a bashed up SUV on the back of a pick up go by and wondered ‘who can smash a vehicle on a dead end straight road?’ Only a drunk.
Dennis and his wife are here on motorcross bikes -perfect to ride the dirt tracks and avoid tarmac roads. Most roads are new, and so are the drivers, car ownership has tripled since 1990. So Dennis has a slipped disc and walks in the night. A car swerved past him, obviously a drunk driver, them boom, he hit a big boat on a trailer smashing it against a concrete wall. The driver’s fine, phone calls, the boat owner is roused, then the village negotiator: the driver desperate to avoid the police. All was resolved amicably!! Imagine the story ‘I was on my side of the road and this boat came at me…’