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Monthly Archives: November 2016

Feeling like two senior cyclists!!

            Jagat Niwas Palace in Udaipur is a wonderful oasis of calm in Rajasthan! Every vista in the hotel a photograph! So we enjoyed a holiday within our tour, cycling circular routes each day through the hills, without panniers, returning to scrabble on the sunset terrace with a silver pot … Continue reading »

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Udaipur

Udaipur was named “most romantic spot on the continent of India” by colonel James Tod of the East India Company. Our hopes were raised, surely this is the town to lift our spirits? We arrived late in the evening by train, grateful to escape the tedious journey. Meanwhile, 230km south east of Agra, 14 coaches … Continue reading »

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Jaipur without bikes

With relief, I feel my energy beginning to return. A nice hotel, a good night’s sleep: we are normal tourists on a day out in Jaipur.  And to finish, a delightful pot of tea and salad, sharing a table with an entertaining mother and daughter pair from New Delhi. 🙂 The early Rajput fled into … Continue reading »

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Being ill in India

  After five days in an AC hotel room I am ready to face the world again! I have been floored by a chest infection that started as an irritating cough in the severe pollution of Delhi but worsened in  Agra. The day after Fatepur Sikri we cycled on almost empty roads to Alwar, and … Continue reading »

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The Taj Mahal

    Fatepur Sikri was Akbar’s capital for 14 years, built to honour a Sufi saint who correctly predicted an heir. But it was completely abandoned when Akbar died due to a lack of water. The immense mosque is still used, it’s entrance through The Victory Gate.   The Taj Mahal is a stunning mausoleum … Continue reading »

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A close shave

An early Sunday morning exit from Delhi on minor roads through functioning filth and chaos. How can people survive like this? Be positive in such squalor? Cattle are foraging through piles of waste. The monkeys stalking the street dwellers are cleaner than the children, their hair matted with dirt, rags for clothes as they sweep … Continue reading »

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New Delhi

With all the burning of vegetation in northern India, visibility is less than a thousand metres and thoroughly disgusting to breathe: the schools have now closed until the smog clears. It smells like burnt toast and the only escape is on the wonderful metro ( now that was a laugh at rush hour because the … Continue reading »

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Fireworks in the fog

Delhi, India’s capital, is a tangled tapestry of gardens, dusty bazaars, sprawling apartments and street workshops, modern malls and colonial classics. Sprinkled on top are relics of lost empires, all of it connected by a spider’s web of chaotic roads. The cacophony of horns is almost continuous, but mostly traffic flows. Vehicles weave continuously so … Continue reading »

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